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The Dinner Detective dines at: Beluga, Manchester city centre
The Dinner Detective20/10/2005
BELUGA manages to feel secretive and secluded despite being on a
busy main road, a stone's throw away from the town hall.
It's discreetly decorated, with rosewood tables and chairs, shiny
copper panels on the walls, wrap around olive suede chairs and
several booths, which add to feeling of comfy seclusion.
My dining partner opted for the whole king tiger prawns marinated
in coriander, garlic, ginger and brown sugar, and flambéed with
brandy (£6.95). I choose the pan-seared mushrooms (v) with red
onion and garlic on toasted bread with a balsamic glaze (£4.25).
The mushrooms are a departure from the norm for me. I'm a bit of a
meat fiend and my stomach tends to feel slightly cheated unless
every dish has something meaty in it. But the mushrooms, are tasty,
if a little bit boring by the end. The prawns are much more
scrumptious and feel like a treat.
We also order an award-winning Shiraz from Wakefield Australia
(£18.95). The description on the label is so ludicrously detailed
it allows me to feel like a member of The Times Wine Club, tasting
the plum, oak and vanilla. It was a taste to savour with the
starters but began to taste quite heavy and strong by the
desserts.
Unsure sure where the name Beluga comes from, I'd expected to find
lots of caviar-based dishes on the menu but instead find a lot of
other fish dishes to choose from. My partner opts for the whole sea
bass slowly cooked with spinach and citrus fruits, served with
buttered new potatoes, drizzled with hollandaise sauce
(£15.95)
I choose the slow roasted lamb shank with onions, garlic, tomato
and herbs, sealed and slow roasted, served with parsley mashed
potato and mint red wine jus (£12.95) and we order a potion of
Beluga chunky chips (£1.95) between us. The lamb shank's a real
feast with lots of succulent meat to trim and devour with the
triple thick mashed potato. With the excellent chips as well, I'm
almost beaten. The fish looks difficult to eat, but that's not
Beluga's fault, that's just fish. Not good shovel food but still
tasty.
Then to dessert and the sticky toffee pudding (£4.50) is chosen
along with the Belgian waffles with ice cream (£4.95). Both
desserts are gorgeous, so much so that I actually, for a second,
consider licking the plate.
With two filter coffees (£1.50 each) the total bill comes to a
slightly extravagant £73.45 but that had been pushed up a bit by
the £19 wine. All in all, a tasty and well-presented meal.
For a full menu visit the website at
www.belugaonline.co.uk
On the menu
Starters: Cheapest, soup £.25; most expensive, seafood platter for 2, £12.50
Mains: Cheapest, roasted red pepper en croute, £6.95; most expensive, fillet steak grilled and served with pepper or diane sauce, £15.95.
Desserts: Various, £4 to £5
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