Simply Heathcotes, Jackson's Row, Manchester city centre

THE Sundays before bank holidays are some of the most relaxing days of year.

With no need to worry about work in the morning and a well-earned lie-in on the horizon, they are the perfect opportunity to relax with friends and enjoy that most British of institutions - the Sunday Lunch.

And because Simply Heathcotes on Jackson's Row, off Deansgate, were offering three courses from its Sunday menu for a cut-price £17, or two courses for £14.50, I thought it the perfect time to visit.

It was a sunny evening outside and therefore the grand city restaurant with its high ceilings and brown, beige and orange interior was practically deserted when my dining partner and I arrived, a little late, just after 7pm.

The waitress asked us to take our pick of the two-seater tables on offer and we wandered over to a table underneath a glass roof and in front of a mirrored wall to sit in the Philippe Starck chairs.

I say wander because she didn't actually show us to our table and, even though she eventually brought the menus, she didn't take our drink order for about 10 minutes.

There was also a healthy serving of food on the tiled floor underneath our table! But looking around the rest of the restaurant seems clean and we decided it was just bad luck.

The Sunday menu has all the roasts you'd expect, together with some appetising starters. There was some disagreement over who will order the smoked salmon on a bed of scrambled egg, but I was saved when my guest spotted the crab salad on the specials menu at £4.95.

It's a little confusing trying to work out what is classed as a starter on the specials menu, and how this relates to the cut-price deal.

We were both a little delicate after a party on the Saturday night so while I bravely attempted a glass of the Italian house red, which is very nice for £3.85, my guest opted for a bottle of still water for £3.25.

We both enjoyed the starters. I've never had smoked salmon and scrambled egg together before but the two distinct flavours complement each other and it's something I'd order again. I feel a little guilty because, even though clearly enjoying the crab salad, there were one or two envious glances at my plate from my partner.

For the mains I chose a roast beef Sunday lunch and my guest the lamb shank, with a £3 side order of mixed greens.

The restaurant had filled a little while as we polished off the starters but was nowhere near capacity so it was a little disappointing at how long we were left to chat over our empty plates.

When the main course did come, I asked for the all-important condiment of mustard. I wait a few minutes but the Yorkshire pudding and generous helping of beef looks so tasty I decide to press on - and both our plates are clean before the waiter comes over to apologise for forgetting the mustard.

The food was superb, even without the tear inducing mustard-hit, especially the roast potatoes and my guest loved the soft lamb shank.

It was so tasty in fact that we'd nearly forgiven the rubbish service when we realise we'd again waited for someone to take the plates and bring the dessert menu.

We knew we both wanted the white chocolate cheesecake and my guest unsuccessfully tried to catch the eye of the waitress. When she eventually came to take the plates we asked if we could order dessert, and before we can say "white chocolate cheesecake" she'd dropped off two menus and scurried off again. It was another 10 minutes before she returned.

The dessert is another triumph though, with a sizable block of cheesecake and sufficient dollop of double chocolate ice cream. It beats me, which is unusual for cheesecake.

The total bill is a very reasonable £50, which includes a couple more soft drinks for both of us.

Simply Heathcotes opened in 1996 and its website says it has "often been associated as a catalyst for the rejuvenated Manchester eating scene" and is "probably the best restaurant in the city".

Maybe it is on weeknights, when the restaurant is in full swing. But on a Sunday, especially before a bank holiday, it should be my guest and me who are relaxing, not the staff.

What's on the menu?

Starters: Cheapest - soup of the day £3.75, most expensive - smoked salmon drop scone £7.50
Main courses: Cheapest - Open lasagne of portabello mushroom and asparagus £11.50, most expensive - Grilled fillet of turbot £18.50
Parking: Several city centre car parks nearby
Other info: A separate children's menu for the under 10s is available at £6.99 for two courses, with a donation of 25p made to Childline for every meal sold. 0161 8353536

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